This will probably seem like a silly question but I don't usually have to deal with the HVAC system anymore; we have an HVAC tech on site but he is fresh out of school and doesn't know. We have an intellipac which is showing an error for the RTM Aux temp. What temperature is it actually sensing and where is the sensor generally located? I cannot find it even mentioned in the book or schematics. Our unit seems to be running okay; I just don't like having errors from sensors. Thank you,
Monday, February 22, 2016
Need help in removing this door knob
Hi!
I'm trying to remove this commercial schlage door lock/knob however once I took off the cover plate on the inside, I'm not able to remove the door knob on the other side. Any ideas on how to remove this?
I'm trying to remove this commercial schlage door lock/knob however once I took off the cover plate on the inside, I'm not able to remove the door knob on the other side. Any ideas on how to remove this?
Mayor John Tory will pitch Toronto to L.A. film studios
Mayor is scheduled to meet with executives from 11 studios on three-day trip to sell them on filming in Toronto.
Sunday, February 21, 2016
Help: Nest Installation/2 wires humidifier
Hi,
I just purchased a Nest 3rd Generation, now, the diagram for the thermostat for my heating system is easy, but I have a 2 wires humidifier with a orange and I guess brown wire (not completely sure of the color on this one).
Nest does not provide any info on that I pay a professional installation will bring the "final price" of this thermostat out of my reach.
I need help, please, so I can do the installation by myself.
Thank you
I just purchased a Nest 3rd Generation, now, the diagram for the thermostat for my heating system is easy, but I have a 2 wires humidifier with a orange and I guess brown wire (not completely sure of the color on this one).
Nest does not provide any info on that I pay a professional installation will bring the "final price" of this thermostat out of my reach.
I need help, please, so I can do the installation by myself.
Thank you
Saturday, February 20, 2016
City, outside workers reach tentative contract deal; inside workers extend their deadline
Announcement comes hours after midnight deadline for strike or lockout had passed. Inside workers say their talks will continue on Saturday.
Water pipe heat cable for pex
I had a frozen pipe which is used for heating. Pipe was routed outside and goes up to 2nd floor. Froze pipe was copper and that section was switched with a PEX pipe. I wanted to know if i can use the heating cable with copper and PEX mix.
I have two shark bites on two ends with copper on one side and pex in the middle.
I have two shark bites on two ends with copper on one side and pex in the middle.
Friday, February 19, 2016
How I Made the Old Tapatalk Work
I have an Android phone running 4.4.2. I hate the new versions of Tapatalk... it's all gooped up. I really liked the old version 2.4.13. So, here's how I got it to work:
- install new Tapatalk, create an account in Tapatalk *** very important ***
- look up your forums, log into them, and make sure they show up in "Accounts"
- remove new Tapatalk
- install your preferred version of old Tapatalk
http://www.apk4fun.com/history/866/
http://www.apkmirror.com/uploads/?q=tapatalk-inc
Or search the internet for the specific version you want.
- dont try to search for the forums. The old versions wont find anything
- log into your Tapatalk account and your forums should appear in the Accounts column
- log into your forums
- tweak settings
That's it!
Be warned that not all versions will work with newer Android OSs. It's trial and error.
- install new Tapatalk, create an account in Tapatalk *** very important ***
- look up your forums, log into them, and make sure they show up in "Accounts"
- remove new Tapatalk
- install your preferred version of old Tapatalk
http://www.apk4fun.com/history/866/
http://www.apkmirror.com/uploads/?q=tapatalk-inc
Or search the internet for the specific version you want.
- dont try to search for the forums. The old versions wont find anything
- log into your Tapatalk account and your forums should appear in the Accounts column
- log into your forums
- tweak settings
That's it!
Be warned that not all versions will work with newer Android OSs. It's trial and error.
Generator/invertor and bonded neutral
Hello
I am planning a backup system to power my ?boiler? during a power outage. I?ve done a lot research. The wiring is figured out and I have the load requirements of the boiler. I am trying to install the most versatile system. I have yet to purchase a generator or inverter, and the transfer switch. The only issue I have left deals with the bonded/floating neutral. I would like to be able to use a generator [b]or[\b] inverter. Generators may or may not have their own bonded neutral, depending on model. Inverters may or may not have their own bonded neutral, depending on model. (It seems most inverters have a bonded neutral, and is complicated if a GFCI is used).) Some generators can be configured either way, or a ?bonding plug? assembled by connecting the ground to the neutral and plugging it into the outlet on the generator. I plan on using a pure sign inverter as the boiler does have a circuit board and processor (and pure sign inverters seem more versatile, better made, output 120 VAC on the hot rather than possibly 120 split between hot and neutral). The house load center is bonded neutral. I will be using a single circuit transfer switch. Per code there can be only one bonded neutral in a separately derived system. If the transfer switch only switches the hot, the generator/inverter side of the transfer switch cannot be bonded. If the transfer switch switches both the hot and neutral, the generator/inverter side of the transfer switch must be bonded. I plan on using a short extension cord to connect the generator/inverter to the transfer switch (or power inlet box). Backfeeding will not be considered.
The transfer switch is the issue. Switches such as the EZ Generator Switch can purchased either way - switched or non-switched neutral. I believe the switched version could be quickly rewired so the neutral bypasses the switch, thus allowing for a single bonded neutral if a floating neutral generator/inverter is used.
Thoughts? I am missing something? Again, my goal is to create the most versatile system that is independent of the type of generator or inverter.
I know the bonded neutral and generators and inverters issue is not new. If this has been answered before, please point me to the correct thread.
I am planning a backup system to power my ?boiler? during a power outage. I?ve done a lot research. The wiring is figured out and I have the load requirements of the boiler. I am trying to install the most versatile system. I have yet to purchase a generator or inverter, and the transfer switch. The only issue I have left deals with the bonded/floating neutral. I would like to be able to use a generator [b]or[\b] inverter. Generators may or may not have their own bonded neutral, depending on model. Inverters may or may not have their own bonded neutral, depending on model. (It seems most inverters have a bonded neutral, and is complicated if a GFCI is used).) Some generators can be configured either way, or a ?bonding plug? assembled by connecting the ground to the neutral and plugging it into the outlet on the generator. I plan on using a pure sign inverter as the boiler does have a circuit board and processor (and pure sign inverters seem more versatile, better made, output 120 VAC on the hot rather than possibly 120 split between hot and neutral). The house load center is bonded neutral. I will be using a single circuit transfer switch. Per code there can be only one bonded neutral in a separately derived system. If the transfer switch only switches the hot, the generator/inverter side of the transfer switch cannot be bonded. If the transfer switch switches both the hot and neutral, the generator/inverter side of the transfer switch must be bonded. I plan on using a short extension cord to connect the generator/inverter to the transfer switch (or power inlet box). Backfeeding will not be considered.
The transfer switch is the issue. Switches such as the EZ Generator Switch can purchased either way - switched or non-switched neutral. I believe the switched version could be quickly rewired so the neutral bypasses the switch, thus allowing for a single bonded neutral if a floating neutral generator/inverter is used.
Thoughts? I am missing something? Again, my goal is to create the most versatile system that is independent of the type of generator or inverter.
I know the bonded neutral and generators and inverters issue is not new. If this has been answered before, please point me to the correct thread.
City, outside workers reach tentative contract deal
Announcement comes hours after midnight deadline for strike or lockout had passed.
Thursday, February 18, 2016
Small Nail/Staple Guns Electric VS Air
I want to get a couple of small Nail/Staple guns.
First project to be used on:
Replacing plyboard around eves of my shop. My existing plyboard is getting really bad around the eves of the shop so I want to remove it & replace it with 1/4 plyboard. So, I need a small nail/brad gun that will shoot 1" or so nails/brads, whatever as well as staples. Now, I say that cause I have a little electric nailer/stapler thing that shoots both but I don't really like it. It doesn't seem to be strong enough for its purpose. So, that's what I am kinda looking to replace. To be honest, I dont know that I would use a stapler that much so a 1" nail/brad gun would be ok.
I also do little piddling things like bird houses etc with 1/2" plyboard. So, I kinda need something that will do these little small projects.
I have an air compressor so that's not an issue & of course we even have electricity around here. I'll be honest in that I probably wont use this thing a lot. Especially on a weekly basis, sometimes on a monthly basis. So, it could be 3 or 4 months between uses.
With that info, would you suggest an electric over air? I think I would prefer an air gun but, I am not opposed to getting an electric, but I've heard, you need to keep an air gun oiled or maintained even when not in use for periods of time, otherwise the seals etc will dry out & you'll have to have them rebuilt or something.... whatever.
I buy most of my hardware & project supply's at Home Depot.... but, I sometimes check Lowes too. Name brands? Other tips?
So....... Yes? No? Maybe? Air? Electric? What to you say?
First project to be used on:
Replacing plyboard around eves of my shop. My existing plyboard is getting really bad around the eves of the shop so I want to remove it & replace it with 1/4 plyboard. So, I need a small nail/brad gun that will shoot 1" or so nails/brads, whatever as well as staples. Now, I say that cause I have a little electric nailer/stapler thing that shoots both but I don't really like it. It doesn't seem to be strong enough for its purpose. So, that's what I am kinda looking to replace. To be honest, I dont know that I would use a stapler that much so a 1" nail/brad gun would be ok.
I also do little piddling things like bird houses etc with 1/2" plyboard. So, I kinda need something that will do these little small projects.
I have an air compressor so that's not an issue & of course we even have electricity around here. I'll be honest in that I probably wont use this thing a lot. Especially on a weekly basis, sometimes on a monthly basis. So, it could be 3 or 4 months between uses.
With that info, would you suggest an electric over air? I think I would prefer an air gun but, I am not opposed to getting an electric, but I've heard, you need to keep an air gun oiled or maintained even when not in use for periods of time, otherwise the seals etc will dry out & you'll have to have them rebuilt or something.... whatever.
I buy most of my hardware & project supply's at Home Depot.... but, I sometimes check Lowes too. Name brands? Other tips?
So....... Yes? No? Maybe? Air? Electric? What to you say?
York YDTJ (That daggum bb)
Recently I rebuilt a YT. I found out the hard way that I have to install the steel ball into the low speed thrust cover. Wondering what the purpose of the steel ball is? Thank you
City of Toronto and workers deadlocked as strike deadline looms
Thousands of City of Toronto workers could legally go on strike after midnight.
Everything You Need to Know About The Latest Twitter Features (And Some Thoughts on Its Future)
Over recent months, there has been a lot of debate about the future of Twitter.
Growth has halted, share prices have fallen, and some are even saying #RIPTwitter.
With all that in mind, the future of Twitter still feels extremely exciting, though. It feels like something big is afoot. And in order to kickstart growth and get people excited again, Twitter has been rolling out a range of great new features and updates.
In this post, I'd love to give you the lowdown on Twitter's newest features and also share some thoughts on where it may be heading in the future.
Wednesday, February 17, 2016
Today's wine cellar
Got a call to look at a wine cellar split. Found 7/8 and 3/8 line sets. Should be 1/2 and 1/4. Customer doesn't want to change lineset because it worked before. He wants a compressor. Another company just installed one six months ago. Breezair wksl 4000.
Cap tube Evap. Site glass outside.
134a. 65 degree ambient. 65 in wine cellar. 35/120. 1 degree compressor sh. Subcooling 24. Was confused with the cap tube and site glass combo. Cap tube should be critical charge charge. Really basic system. Complaint is it won't keep up when hot.
Am I missing something? I say correct line sets then check out system again.
Any advice on site glass with cap tube?
Cap tube Evap. Site glass outside.
134a. 65 degree ambient. 65 in wine cellar. 35/120. 1 degree compressor sh. Subcooling 24. Was confused with the cap tube and site glass combo. Cap tube should be critical charge charge. Really basic system. Complaint is it won't keep up when hot.
Am I missing something? I say correct line sets then check out system again.
Any advice on site glass with cap tube?
Brampton asks provincial Ombudsman to probe downtown deal
Request from council may be stymied by ongoing legal issues.
Bathtub Tiling
Hi, I have a couple general questions about tiling the wall around my bathtub. The bathroom remodel sticky suggested not posting there, so I'm taking a guess at where this post belongs...
I have experience remodeling all the rooms in my home, but I've never installed a new bathtub. Currently, the walls around the tub are fiberglass. We want to take this out along with the tub and replace with tile to go with the new tub. I will be having help with this but need to generally lead the project. So a couple questions I had...
Do I need to waterproof the cement backer board before putting up the mortar? I've seen conflicting answers. If so, what product do you recommend?
Do you just choose from the same tile that you would use on a floor?
Is there a general distance you need to have between the top of the tile and the ceiling?
Are there alternatives to using the tub drain removal tool? I'm willing to save a few bucks here and there if it doesn't hurt the end product.
Any other suggestions are welcome also. Thanks!
I have experience remodeling all the rooms in my home, but I've never installed a new bathtub. Currently, the walls around the tub are fiberglass. We want to take this out along with the tub and replace with tile to go with the new tub. I will be having help with this but need to generally lead the project. So a couple questions I had...
Do I need to waterproof the cement backer board before putting up the mortar? I've seen conflicting answers. If so, what product do you recommend?
Do you just choose from the same tile that you would use on a floor?
Is there a general distance you need to have between the top of the tile and the ceiling?
Are there alternatives to using the tub drain removal tool? I'm willing to save a few bucks here and there if it doesn't hurt the end product.
Any other suggestions are welcome also. Thanks!
Tuesday, February 16, 2016
evaporator need cleaning?
Hello all, i have a had a somewhat funky odor in my house since moving in last summer. It is an older home but has a 90% gas furnace. I opened the housing on the Skudder humidifier and found that the pad was pretty well gunked up with mold and mineral deposits. I replaced pad and cleaned housing but now I am wondering if the mold was limited to just the humidifier or if it might possibly also be growing on the evaporator coil. There is no access panel that allows me to take a look inside so I'm wondering if I should get someone out to cut a door into the plenum so we can take a look at the coil and clean if needed. Any advice is appreciated, thanks, jeff
Residencial hvac heating problem (water based)
I had a new ac built to order that replaced my old one 3 years ago. Right after warranty was off (2 years in) a/c started to act wierd. During winters from time to time, it starts to blow cold air and with no reason goes back to normal. During summer, all is ok though. This year again same thing happened. I manually overrided actuator to open position few times. After sometime spring inside it broke, so i bought new unit (erie ag13b020) and replaced whole head, hoping that problem will disappear. After 24h however, problem came back. During the day a/c blows hot air, stops automatically and starts right back working all good, but at night though set unchanged to 80 degrees, will start blowing cold air continiously. Only way to get hot air, is again manually opening water walve, which again will make it work great during the day, but fails at night though untouched. What seems to be the problem? Also what's that part on the pripe near erie looking like oversize "watch" battery seen on last picture? Can it be responsible for the on and off cold air?
http://imageshack.com/a/img923/126/P7hQcl.jpg
http://imageshack.com/a/img921/6072/ij1gSd.jpg
http://imageshack.com/a/img922/4708/YW1lRQ.jpg
http://imageshack.com/a/img923/126/P7hQcl.jpg
http://imageshack.com/a/img921/6072/ij1gSd.jpg
http://imageshack.com/a/img922/4708/YW1lRQ.jpg
Monday, February 15, 2016
Need flare tool
Looking for a good flaring tool. Heard there is not many that are good now days, even the name brand ones. Came across Hilmor's orbital flare, looks pretty decent and read decent reviews. Any recommendations?
Universal or DIY Washer/Dryer Stacking Kit
Hello.
I'm wondering if anyone knows of a universal type washer/dryer stacking kit. I purchased a Kenmore set which comes with an LG stacking kit; however, it does not fit and Sears is not help.
I've seen some kits for European models that appear to be a plastic seat for the top of the washer and then a belt that wraps around both units.
If I end up having to improvise a way to stack these units I'm thinking I'll just get some rubber pads for the dryer feet on top of the washer, but what kind of belt/strap would I use to secure the units together?
Thanks.
I'm wondering if anyone knows of a universal type washer/dryer stacking kit. I purchased a Kenmore set which comes with an LG stacking kit; however, it does not fit and Sears is not help.
I've seen some kits for European models that appear to be a plastic seat for the top of the washer and then a belt that wraps around both units.
If I end up having to improvise a way to stack these units I'm thinking I'll just get some rubber pads for the dryer feet on top of the washer, but what kind of belt/strap would I use to secure the units together?
Thanks.
Gord Perks takes on his toughest challenge yet -- Toronto's budget
When the budget under Mayor John Tory goes for final approval at council, its chief critic will be the Parkdale-High Park councillor.
Suite remodeled and new install of power vent for class 2 hood. Arizona Rain cover..
I seen this today troubleshooting a issue for the property management,
The renter has a GC do a remodel is getting air balance and outside air certified for occupancy but is missing a unit after they send for the air balance company the discovered it..... I gonna install new heat pump in day or so but this is example the work being done over there..
The renter has a GC do a remodel is getting air balance and outside air certified for occupancy but is missing a unit after they send for the air balance company the discovered it..... I gonna install new heat pump in day or so but this is example the work being done over there..
Just had one of those "hmmm" moments...
Just finished doing my daughter's tax return (yeah, I still spoil her) and needed her routing number and account number for the direct deposit on the refund. Dropped her an email. About 15 minutes later she called me to give me the numbers as she did not want to send them via email. I'm thinking she should be running for President as she at least knows the meaning of the term comsec.
Most of Toronto's newest police don't live in Toronto
The issue of where police officers live -- and whether it matters -- is a hot topic south of the border.
Toronto unveils contingency plan in case of strike
The city has released its contingency plan for service delivery in the event of a labour disruption
Almost Complete Fireplace
Gotta go back to finish, but thought I'd share. turned out really nice. It is a bonus room above a garage, and the walls are reclaimed barnwood.
The supplier had to send me a replacement stone panel, and the replacement was the wrong pattern. Woodburning firebox, but propane log set for now. New one is coming!:mad
:
The supplier had to send me a replacement stone panel, and the replacement was the wrong pattern. Woodburning firebox, but propane log set for now. New one is coming!:mad
Covered up junction box above ceiling mirror
The previous property owner had put in this elaborate mirrored ceiling with wood framed in sections.
Only problem is, there is a junction box above this ceiling that's covered up.
I would like to access this junction box somehow.
This is the junction box from above in the attic. As you can see there are several EMT conduits connected to it and there is no easy way I can turn it around and make it accessible from the attic side.
Any ideas?
Do I measure carefully and cut the mirrored ceiling from below then put in an ugly box cover? Assuming I don't end up cracking the mirror and once I do that there is no avoiding taking the whole thing down. :help:
Or is there a way I can do something in the attic? :confused:
Only problem is, there is a junction box above this ceiling that's covered up.
I would like to access this junction box somehow.
This is the junction box from above in the attic. As you can see there are several EMT conduits connected to it and there is no easy way I can turn it around and make it accessible from the attic side.
Any ideas?
Do I measure carefully and cut the mirrored ceiling from below then put in an ugly box cover? Assuming I don't end up cracking the mirror and once I do that there is no avoiding taking the whole thing down. :help:
Or is there a way I can do something in the attic? :confused:
On transit, big change coming down the track -- at last: James
It won't be quick in coming, but the broader, busier, more integrated transit system we need is being envisioned at city hall right now, writes Royson James. But it has to be fought for.
Program 5808w3 loop 3 as ZT12
I have a Vista 20p. I'm trying to get a 5808w3 smoke loop 3 (low temp) to program as zone type 12. I can't get it to work correctly. I can program it as zone type 8 and it works but I want it in as ZT 12.
Does anyone know if this can be done?
Thanks.
Does anyone know if this can be done?
Thanks.
Excessive heat rise in an Amana AMVM960603BX modulating furnace
Temperature in the supply plenum rises above what the manual says is the max...pretty quickly. I've been trying to figure this one for many months and it's a mystery. Any insight much appreciated.
Communicating modulating Amana AMVM960603BX furnace with three zones controlled by an EWC Ultra-Zone board. One communicating 'stat, two regular 'stats. The dampers all work. Manometer says total static pressure is less than 0.5 no matter how many zones are open (summing measurements at fan intake plenum after filter, before AC coil with the coil panel open and a hole drilled thru the cover plate, and after the coil). For example, with all zones open and fan speed about 1200 cfm it's about .15 before the fan, about .22 before the coil, and about .12 in the supply plenum. And my anemometer says about 1200 cfm airflow thru the supply plenum. Looks like the air is moving as designed.
The manual for the furnace say an OK temperature rise is 20 to 50 degrees. But no matter how I set the zone board to stage the furnace, the supply plenum temperature gets above 120 degrees within five minutes of heat-on call (return air is about 70 degrees). It looks to me like the core problem is the fan speed is set according to the gas flow: For example, if gas is 100% of maximum then the fan runs at 100% of the speed chosen on the dip switches; 50% gas means 50% fan, and so forth. That is, I can't tell it to run the fan faster than the gas percentage.
What works OK is to set the dip switches so the furnace fan is at max for any given gas percentage, and set the target target temperature on the zone board at 120 degrees and then have the zone board overtemperature cutoff at about 130 degrees. The zone board calls for max heat at startup until the supply plenum gets near 120, which means the fan runs fast. Then the fan and the gas slow down, but there's not enough air to keep it below 130%, so the zone board cuts off the furnace while keeping the fan running, waits three minutes, and starts the cycle over again.
So, I'm letting the supply plenum temperature go 10 degrees above what it says in the manual, but on a cold night, say 10 degrees outside, the thing can barely keep up because the gas is off almost as much as it's on.
And it bugs me to be using a safety to operate the system.
Anyone know of a way to jigger the furnace control board to give me a way to set the fan speed separate from the gas flow?
Sorry for the long post. Thanks!
The problem:
Communicating modulating Amana AMVM960603BX furnace with three zones controlled by an EWC Ultra-Zone board. One communicating 'stat, two regular 'stats. The dampers all work. Manometer says total static pressure is less than 0.5 no matter how many zones are open (summing measurements at fan intake plenum after filter, before AC coil with the coil panel open and a hole drilled thru the cover plate, and after the coil). For example, with all zones open and fan speed about 1200 cfm it's about .15 before the fan, about .22 before the coil, and about .12 in the supply plenum. And my anemometer says about 1200 cfm airflow thru the supply plenum. Looks like the air is moving as designed.
The manual for the furnace say an OK temperature rise is 20 to 50 degrees. But no matter how I set the zone board to stage the furnace, the supply plenum temperature gets above 120 degrees within five minutes of heat-on call (return air is about 70 degrees). It looks to me like the core problem is the fan speed is set according to the gas flow: For example, if gas is 100% of maximum then the fan runs at 100% of the speed chosen on the dip switches; 50% gas means 50% fan, and so forth. That is, I can't tell it to run the fan faster than the gas percentage.
What works OK is to set the dip switches so the furnace fan is at max for any given gas percentage, and set the target target temperature on the zone board at 120 degrees and then have the zone board overtemperature cutoff at about 130 degrees. The zone board calls for max heat at startup until the supply plenum gets near 120, which means the fan runs fast. Then the fan and the gas slow down, but there's not enough air to keep it below 130%, so the zone board cuts off the furnace while keeping the fan running, waits three minutes, and starts the cycle over again.
So, I'm letting the supply plenum temperature go 10 degrees above what it says in the manual, but on a cold night, say 10 degrees outside, the thing can barely keep up because the gas is off almost as much as it's on.
And it bugs me to be using a safety to operate the system.
Anyone know of a way to jigger the furnace control board to give me a way to set the fan speed separate from the gas flow?
Sorry for the long post. Thanks!
The problem:
Freezing pipes
Hey all you DIY masters- Maybe you all can help out with this one.
Literally every time the temperature seriously drops, I end up with the water line coming into my house freezing. At least, this is where I think its freezing. Pictures may help more- I'll add them for reference.
The pipes seem to be freezing underneath my front door entrance. It is the raised area behind the brick wall out front. My laundry room does get very cold- this year I left the heater vents wide open in there to add heat to prevent the freeze. However, last night, the filter on my furnace got too clogged and shut down my heat, and it took almost no time for the pipes to freeze. I presently have a space heater and heating pad in the laundry room to try to thaw the line, but its been hours and I still have nothing. All the pipes I can reach with my hand in the wall feel pretty warm, so it must be frozen solid elsewhere.
I have no water flowing anywhere with the exception of my washing machine, which seems to have a separate supply. Does anyone have any tips for preventing this, or solving my problem right now? I would be willing to tear into the wall in the laundry room, though I imagine cutting through studs to access the cavity beneath my walkway would be structurally bad. Any advice or ideas? Thanks guys!
Literally every time the temperature seriously drops, I end up with the water line coming into my house freezing. At least, this is where I think its freezing. Pictures may help more- I'll add them for reference.
The pipes seem to be freezing underneath my front door entrance. It is the raised area behind the brick wall out front. My laundry room does get very cold- this year I left the heater vents wide open in there to add heat to prevent the freeze. However, last night, the filter on my furnace got too clogged and shut down my heat, and it took almost no time for the pipes to freeze. I presently have a space heater and heating pad in the laundry room to try to thaw the line, but its been hours and I still have nothing. All the pipes I can reach with my hand in the wall feel pretty warm, so it must be frozen solid elsewhere.
I have no water flowing anywhere with the exception of my washing machine, which seems to have a separate supply. Does anyone have any tips for preventing this, or solving my problem right now? I would be willing to tear into the wall in the laundry room, though I imagine cutting through studs to access the cavity beneath my walkway would be structurally bad. Any advice or ideas? Thanks guys!
Wednesday, February 10, 2016
Trane rtu with ddc - no heating no draft motor
Am wondering if anyone has dealt with an issue where the Trane rtu yhc048 will not cycle on the heating during auto cycle test (or at any other time) due to the venter motor contacts not closing in the ignition control board? I checked all the burner high temp limit switches and for continuity in the wiring, switched with a known working ignition control board, as well as a working main control board with no success. Seems really odd when known working main board and ign control boards do not work in this unit while all other test functions work in the auto cycle, the unit worked exactly the same before and after swapping the boards. The venter motor works fine when voltage is applied. Am wondering if it may have anything to do with the Lon talk board interfering... But I would think for the auto cycle test it shouldn't. The Lon board appears ok by the way the lights are blinking although I haven't tested it beyond that.
Flaking Pain On Metal Window Frame
I am renovating my basement and noticed the 2 window frames have a metal bottom frame that have metal flaking off. My idea to resolve the issue is to use a small hand sander to remove the flaking paint and simply use a paint brush to put a new layer of paint. I have a few questions:
1) Why would metal be used?
2) Why is it flaking? I don't notice any moisture nor do I see any damage to the sheet rock
3) Can basic interior paint be used (e.g. ceiling / flat paint)?
1) Why would metal be used?
2) Why is it flaking? I don't notice any moisture nor do I see any damage to the sheet rock
3) Can basic interior paint be used (e.g. ceiling / flat paint)?
Cabbies cancel UberX protest for NBA All-Star weekend
Toronto taxi drivers are angry the city won't launch an injunction to shut down the ride-sharing service, pending new regulations.
Tuesday, February 9, 2016
How to Add and Manage Multiple Accounts on Instagram
Instagram has now released one of its most requested features.
The ever-popular photo sharing app announced that following the release of version 7.15 for iOS and Android users will have the ability to switch between multiple accounts.
This news is sure to make power users and social media managers jump with joy as managing multiple accounts for brands (or your pets) has been a time-consuming task up until now.
Here's a super-quick guide on how to add and manage multiple accounts on Instagram.
Adding and switching between multiple accounts
Once the feature is live (it's being rolled out to all users gradually this week), you can manage up to 5 Instagram accounts without having to login and out to switch between each account.
To add an account, head over to your profile page, click the settings cog in the top right corner and look for the 'Add Account' option:
From here you'll be taken to a login screen to connect another account. Once you have multiple accounts connected, you can switch between them by tapping on your username at the top of your profile screen and then tapping on the account you'd like to manage:
You can also switch between accounts by holding over the profile icon in the bottom right of the screen from anywhere within the Instagram app:
Once you hold down the profile image, you'll then see a list of your connected accounts, and from here you can choose which account you'd like to manage:
Instagram will show the profile photo of the account you're managing throughout the app to make it easier to see which account you're active on at all times.
How to remove an account
To remove an account, first switch to the profile you'd like to remove and head over to your account settings and tap Log out of [username]: 
Bonus: A new way to engage with images
This update also brings with it a great new way to like and comment on images as well as share their them via DM.
When you're looking at a post in the grid view (on someone's profile or search results), you can tap and hold to expand the image and also like, comment and share:
Over to you
Do you manage multiple Instagram accounts? If so, I'd love to hear from you in the comments. How much time will this update save you? How had you been managing all your accounts previously?
The post How to Add and Manage Multiple Accounts on Instagram appeared first on Social.
Gas smell direct vent gas fireplace
We have a Vermont Castings direct vent gas fireplace (converted to propane) in our living room. Every time I am in that room, I smell propane down by the hearth. I don't have to be close to the pilot to smell it. Three (yes three) different gas and fireplace technicians have come over, checked the fireplace and lines and insist there's no leak. I still smell it; it's not subtle. Some details:
We have a gas oven as well, and I never smell propane there.
I smell it whether or not the fireplace is lit.
The only way to get rid of the smell is to turn the propane to the fireplace off completely, under the unit itself (which I have done).
The smell persists regardless of how much propane is in our tank--it is currently 3/4 full.
The fireplace is about 13 years old. I first noticed this last winter.
Does anyone have any ideas as to what might be causing this and how I can get it repaired? We'd really like to use the fireplace, but the chemical odorant in the propane is quite distinctive, and I'm not willing to gamble with my family's lives. Thank you so much.
We have a gas oven as well, and I never smell propane there.
I smell it whether or not the fireplace is lit.
The only way to get rid of the smell is to turn the propane to the fireplace off completely, under the unit itself (which I have done).
The smell persists regardless of how much propane is in our tank--it is currently 3/4 full.
The fireplace is about 13 years old. I first noticed this last winter.
Does anyone have any ideas as to what might be causing this and how I can get it repaired? We'd really like to use the fireplace, but the chemical odorant in the propane is quite distinctive, and I'm not willing to gamble with my family's lives. Thank you so much.
Gas boiler won't stay fired up, pilot stays lit
So the boiler won't stay fired up yet the pilot stays on. If I pull out the big red cable in the 3rd picture, from the "Honeywell S86E Intermittent Pilot", the pilot does not go out, however once I plug it back in the boiler suddenly fires up.
Sometimes I do that once and it'll stay going fine for the rest of night or even several days. Other times it takes a few times.
Let me know if any more information is needed. As you can tell from my technical lingo, "big red cable", I have no idea what I'm doing.
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