drip staining

On some houses rain flows off the main roof and then hits a lower roof before running off to the ground. Where it hits the lower roof it can splash back slightly and get the siding wet where it meets the lower roof. If its wood siding it can stain over the years and you cant wash off that stain if its gotten in the wood.

If you replace the siding with cement siding will water be able to stain that also??? or do people use additional coats of paint on those bottom layers so water cant get in the cement siding..

Maytag PSH4BE M1200 vs Goodman GSZ14 Heat Pumps

Hello - I'm a homeowner looking to replace my old Lennox HP-26 Heat pump system. This will replace the heat pump, air handler, lines and whatever else needed. Iv'e had many quotes from many different contractors and am down to these 2 units due to budget reasons. I'm confident with the installer I will be using but wanted to know what the professionals thought between these 2 units.



Which one do you recommend?



Maytag PSH4BE M1200 Stainless - 12 year replacement warranty 15 seer / 8.5 HSPF 3 ton

Goodman GSZ14 - 10 year parts 15 seer / 9 HSPF 3 ton



The Maytag system is $700.00 more than the Goodman.



Thanks!

Problems after replacing bulbs with LEDs

I have a few light fixtures which have experienced different issues after switching from incandescent (halogen) to LED bulbs.



First, I have two of these on our front porch. They are both light and motion sensitive. I have them set to they come on (dim) for 6 hours after dusk, and turn bright when motion is sensed. After the 6 hours, they turn off, but will still come on to full bright with motion.



Anyway, they've worked fine for years. Then I replaced the halogens with these LEDs. Now both the light sensing and motion sensing functions are inoperative. They're basically just "dumb" lights now: turn on and off with the switch, nothing else. Why?



The web page says you can use LEDs, as long as they are dimmable, and they are. Yet it seems like somehow the LEDs have killed both of the sensing functions. And to top it off, I put halogens back and and the light / motion sensing is still dead. It's like the LEDs permanently killed them! Does this make any sense?







Separately, I have an interior light fixture which holds 3 incandescent bulbs. I switched them to 3 LEDs and the worked fine. However, the fixture is on a dimmer, and I had forgotten to buy dimmable LEDs. So I went out and bought dimmable LEDs and swapped them out. Now, 1 of the 3 sockets won't work with the dimmable LED! It works with the incandescent/halogen, works with the non-dimmable LED, but won't work with the dimmable LED! And the other 2 sockets work fine with any of the bulbs. Any ideas on this one?



Thanks!

Supply grill selection based on FPM

I read that a target range for FPM should be around 600 to 800. Hart and Cooley recommends 700 FPM. The companies I used to work for just based it on the approximate cfm. For example, 110 cfm would be 10x6, 160 cfm would be 12x6, and 200 cfm would be 14x8 grills.



I was looking at some H&C data charts. The data seems to show that 110cfm would warrant an 8x4 grill. It would have a throw of 12 feet, however. Should the throw just be at least 5 ft? It seems like there would be excessive noise. I'm looking at the A618 side wall grills.



What A618 grills should be used for:



110 CFM

400 CFM



I don't see data for the 12x12 and 14x14 grill. Which one would be recommended for 400 cfm?



http://www.hartandcooley.com/files/a...g_ed8_0914.pdf

Prepping retaining wall for laying brick?

Approx. 2 1/2 years ago built a 12"H X 50'L retaining wall using 'split face' cinder block, I used rebar to support the retaining wall then filled with cement and leveled. I now want to install brick on top of the wall but after these few years not sure how to prep the surface? I would also appreciated comments/suggestions on the type of mortar I should use?



Thank you! Dave

whats the trick to getting these quick connect impact chucks? tools stick

ughh i am embarrassed to say i have two Milwaukee and now one dewalt quick chuck i use in my small impact type compact drills so i can use regular bits in it.. however once i put the first bits in and use it i cannot for the life of me get the chuck to release bits! i thought they were defective but starting to think im defective..



is there a trick to it?



the dewalt feels like if you lift on the housing it is springy but if you turn with way the dang chuck will either spin or lock but wont release!! these are expensive and tired of buying them..



help:gah:

the dewalt

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NTI Boiler loop issues

I installed A NTI TFT 200 boiler with a indirect Hwt last fall. the system worked well throughout the winter. Now that the warmer weather has arrived, the central heat is shut off. I got a call from my customer saying the boiler is still running and the rads are hot. So I went over check it out, found out that when there is a demand for dhw my ch heat loop is getting hot. The ch pump does not come on and i have confirmed this. So I called the NTI tech support to see if they have any solutions and even sent pics to him so he could look at my primary/secondary and dhw loops. He said everything looks fine and said there's no way that the ch loop should be getting hot.



does anybody have any ideas as to what this issue could be?????



thanks