How would I replace a broken glass in a double pane, vertical slide-up window with an aluminum frame? 

Sunday, June 5, 2016
Saturday, June 4, 2016
ECM Motor Testers
What do you guys recommend for testing the ECM motors? I have seen the TecMate and the two from Zebra. Any one better than the other? Let's not...
thermostat wiring help needed ASAP!!
Hey everyone,
I just bought a new home and am in process of replacing the old thermostat to a Honeywell RTH7600. the old wiring was labeled and colored as the following:
G - green wire
Y - yellow wire
E - brown wire
W2 - black wire
R - red wire
O - orange wire
C - blue wire
this is the first time really messing with home electric of any sort. Where I was getting confused was the inside lettering vs outside lettering on the new thermostat. Across from O/B, its a W. Across from E its Y2. if someone could let me know where to plug the corresponding wires in relation to the OUTSIDE lettering it would be greatly appreciated.
below is the original thermostat wiring, the diagram for the new rth7600 and a google image of the same model I have(do not look at wiring colors on last image)



I just bought a new home and am in process of replacing the old thermostat to a Honeywell RTH7600. the old wiring was labeled and colored as the following:
G - green wire
Y - yellow wire
E - brown wire
W2 - black wire
R - red wire
O - orange wire
C - blue wire
this is the first time really messing with home electric of any sort. Where I was getting confused was the inside lettering vs outside lettering on the new thermostat. Across from O/B, its a W. Across from E its Y2. if someone could let me know where to plug the corresponding wires in relation to the OUTSIDE lettering it would be greatly appreciated.
below is the original thermostat wiring, the diagram for the new rth7600 and a google image of the same model I have(do not look at wiring colors on last image)
Garage Door Springs
I have two garage doors. The torsion spring on one broke several months ago so I took the spring off of the side that isn't used but about 4 times a year and replaced the broken one. Now it is time to put a spring on the side that doesn't have one.
I have measured the length of the spring I have but in looking at other springs I have noticed that they are left or right hand wound. How do you tell the difference and what difference does it make how they are wound?
thanks
Syb
I have measured the length of the spring I have but in looking at other springs I have noticed that they are left or right hand wound. How do you tell the difference and what difference does it make how they are wound?
thanks
Syb
York rooftop with economizer
So I will fully admit, I am a terrible tech when it comes to economizers, generally call tech support, they diagnose.
Yesterday working working on a...
Yesterday working working on a...
Friday, June 3, 2016
Weil-McLain inderect water heater not starting after thermostat leak
Hi All I have a Weil-McLain indirect water heater, it started leaking from the thermostat shaft connection. Ironically the space which houses the thermostat control device was filled with water. Now the oil burner does not seem to receive any electric power. reset button is not blinking (it would have if it was activated). Would replacing the thermostat control fix the issue?
Also I cant seem to find the replacement shaft which was housing the thermometer. Does any one know what is the name for that part?
Much Obliged!
Igor
Also I cant seem to find the replacement shaft which was housing the thermometer. Does any one know what is the name for that part?
Much Obliged!
Igor
OVE-20 TXV conundrum
This is an AC application but I feel ill get the beat answer here- as I normally do. Two 20 ton externally equalized OVE-20s feed a single 40 ton evap. Had an undercharge condition. My pecking order is charge to an appreciable amount of sub-cooling then check superheat. Is the most logical to me- so I'm starting to feel comfortable with the charge. So I check my superheat at the evaporator outlet. Huh- both all over the place- absolutely will not stabilize hunts all over from excessive to flooding. So.... before I proceed here let it be known that I preach and am very adamant about NOT MONKEYING WITH TXV-. But I this case I had to get to the bottom of things. I monitored things all day. First thing verified stem was at factory (half way) setting for step one. No change. For grins I closed it all the way- no change- still flooding - then starving - flooding then starving back and forth... Now how in the hell can I be flooding with the stem all the way front seated for test purposes and why do both do it- two txvs feed single coil. Obviously the power head is opening the valve- hence the flooding- but my main question is there any rebuilding the guts- I don't think these larger valves have a cartridge like the smaller ones. Also it doesn't feel like there's any stop at front seat or back seat- just stem turning almost as if it had been reefed on at some point I would expect a significant stop or resitance at full open or close but stem just spins- does retract and extend but doesn't seem to stabilize superheat. Just weird that both are doing it. But one thing I've learned and am quoting another user here is in this business "depending on age discount nothing". Words to live by. So does sporlan offer body rebuild kit or is only the power head replaceable. Seems like the body does come apart.
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)