The city has released its contingency plan for service delivery in the event of a labour disruption
Monday, February 15, 2016
Toronto unveils contingency plan in case of strike
The city has released its contingency plan for service delivery in the event of a labour disruption
Almost Complete Fireplace
Gotta go back to finish, but thought I'd share. turned out really nice. It is a bonus room above a garage, and the walls are reclaimed barnwood.
The supplier had to send me a replacement stone panel, and the replacement was the wrong pattern. Woodburning firebox, but propane log set for now. New one is coming!:mad
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The supplier had to send me a replacement stone panel, and the replacement was the wrong pattern. Woodburning firebox, but propane log set for now. New one is coming!:mad
:Covered up junction box above ceiling mirror
The previous property owner had put in this elaborate mirrored ceiling with wood framed in sections.
Only problem is, there is a junction box above this ceiling that's covered up.
I would like to access this junction box somehow.
This is the junction box from above in the attic. As you can see there are several EMT conduits connected to it and there is no easy way I can turn it around and make it accessible from the attic side.
Any ideas?
Do I measure carefully and cut the mirrored ceiling from below then put in an ugly box cover? Assuming I don't end up cracking the mirror and once I do that there is no avoiding taking the whole thing down. :help:
Or is there a way I can do something in the attic? :confused:
Only problem is, there is a junction box above this ceiling that's covered up.
I would like to access this junction box somehow.
This is the junction box from above in the attic. As you can see there are several EMT conduits connected to it and there is no easy way I can turn it around and make it accessible from the attic side.
Any ideas?
Do I measure carefully and cut the mirrored ceiling from below then put in an ugly box cover? Assuming I don't end up cracking the mirror and once I do that there is no avoiding taking the whole thing down. :help:
Or is there a way I can do something in the attic? :confused:
On transit, big change coming down the track -- at last: James
It won't be quick in coming, but the broader, busier, more integrated transit system we need is being envisioned at city hall right now, writes Royson James. But it has to be fought for.
Program 5808w3 loop 3 as ZT12
I have a Vista 20p. I'm trying to get a 5808w3 smoke loop 3 (low temp) to program as zone type 12. I can't get it to work correctly. I can program it as zone type 8 and it works but I want it in as ZT 12.
Does anyone know if this can be done?
Thanks.
Does anyone know if this can be done?
Thanks.
Excessive heat rise in an Amana AMVM960603BX modulating furnace
Temperature in the supply plenum rises above what the manual says is the max...pretty quickly. I've been trying to figure this one for many months and it's a mystery. Any insight much appreciated.
Communicating modulating Amana AMVM960603BX furnace with three zones controlled by an EWC Ultra-Zone board. One communicating 'stat, two regular 'stats. The dampers all work. Manometer says total static pressure is less than 0.5 no matter how many zones are open (summing measurements at fan intake plenum after filter, before AC coil with the coil panel open and a hole drilled thru the cover plate, and after the coil). For example, with all zones open and fan speed about 1200 cfm it's about .15 before the fan, about .22 before the coil, and about .12 in the supply plenum. And my anemometer says about 1200 cfm airflow thru the supply plenum. Looks like the air is moving as designed.
The manual for the furnace say an OK temperature rise is 20 to 50 degrees. But no matter how I set the zone board to stage the furnace, the supply plenum temperature gets above 120 degrees within five minutes of heat-on call (return air is about 70 degrees). It looks to me like the core problem is the fan speed is set according to the gas flow: For example, if gas is 100% of maximum then the fan runs at 100% of the speed chosen on the dip switches; 50% gas means 50% fan, and so forth. That is, I can't tell it to run the fan faster than the gas percentage.
What works OK is to set the dip switches so the furnace fan is at max for any given gas percentage, and set the target target temperature on the zone board at 120 degrees and then have the zone board overtemperature cutoff at about 130 degrees. The zone board calls for max heat at startup until the supply plenum gets near 120, which means the fan runs fast. Then the fan and the gas slow down, but there's not enough air to keep it below 130%, so the zone board cuts off the furnace while keeping the fan running, waits three minutes, and starts the cycle over again.
So, I'm letting the supply plenum temperature go 10 degrees above what it says in the manual, but on a cold night, say 10 degrees outside, the thing can barely keep up because the gas is off almost as much as it's on.
And it bugs me to be using a safety to operate the system.
Anyone know of a way to jigger the furnace control board to give me a way to set the fan speed separate from the gas flow?
Sorry for the long post. Thanks!
The problem:
Communicating modulating Amana AMVM960603BX furnace with three zones controlled by an EWC Ultra-Zone board. One communicating 'stat, two regular 'stats. The dampers all work. Manometer says total static pressure is less than 0.5 no matter how many zones are open (summing measurements at fan intake plenum after filter, before AC coil with the coil panel open and a hole drilled thru the cover plate, and after the coil). For example, with all zones open and fan speed about 1200 cfm it's about .15 before the fan, about .22 before the coil, and about .12 in the supply plenum. And my anemometer says about 1200 cfm airflow thru the supply plenum. Looks like the air is moving as designed.
The manual for the furnace say an OK temperature rise is 20 to 50 degrees. But no matter how I set the zone board to stage the furnace, the supply plenum temperature gets above 120 degrees within five minutes of heat-on call (return air is about 70 degrees). It looks to me like the core problem is the fan speed is set according to the gas flow: For example, if gas is 100% of maximum then the fan runs at 100% of the speed chosen on the dip switches; 50% gas means 50% fan, and so forth. That is, I can't tell it to run the fan faster than the gas percentage.
What works OK is to set the dip switches so the furnace fan is at max for any given gas percentage, and set the target target temperature on the zone board at 120 degrees and then have the zone board overtemperature cutoff at about 130 degrees. The zone board calls for max heat at startup until the supply plenum gets near 120, which means the fan runs fast. Then the fan and the gas slow down, but there's not enough air to keep it below 130%, so the zone board cuts off the furnace while keeping the fan running, waits three minutes, and starts the cycle over again.
So, I'm letting the supply plenum temperature go 10 degrees above what it says in the manual, but on a cold night, say 10 degrees outside, the thing can barely keep up because the gas is off almost as much as it's on.
And it bugs me to be using a safety to operate the system.
Anyone know of a way to jigger the furnace control board to give me a way to set the fan speed separate from the gas flow?
Sorry for the long post. Thanks!
The problem:
Freezing pipes
Hey all you DIY masters- Maybe you all can help out with this one.
Literally every time the temperature seriously drops, I end up with the water line coming into my house freezing. At least, this is where I think its freezing. Pictures may help more- I'll add them for reference.
The pipes seem to be freezing underneath my front door entrance. It is the raised area behind the brick wall out front. My laundry room does get very cold- this year I left the heater vents wide open in there to add heat to prevent the freeze. However, last night, the filter on my furnace got too clogged and shut down my heat, and it took almost no time for the pipes to freeze. I presently have a space heater and heating pad in the laundry room to try to thaw the line, but its been hours and I still have nothing. All the pipes I can reach with my hand in the wall feel pretty warm, so it must be frozen solid elsewhere.
I have no water flowing anywhere with the exception of my washing machine, which seems to have a separate supply. Does anyone have any tips for preventing this, or solving my problem right now? I would be willing to tear into the wall in the laundry room, though I imagine cutting through studs to access the cavity beneath my walkway would be structurally bad. Any advice or ideas? Thanks guys!
Literally every time the temperature seriously drops, I end up with the water line coming into my house freezing. At least, this is where I think its freezing. Pictures may help more- I'll add them for reference.
The pipes seem to be freezing underneath my front door entrance. It is the raised area behind the brick wall out front. My laundry room does get very cold- this year I left the heater vents wide open in there to add heat to prevent the freeze. However, last night, the filter on my furnace got too clogged and shut down my heat, and it took almost no time for the pipes to freeze. I presently have a space heater and heating pad in the laundry room to try to thaw the line, but its been hours and I still have nothing. All the pipes I can reach with my hand in the wall feel pretty warm, so it must be frozen solid elsewhere.
I have no water flowing anywhere with the exception of my washing machine, which seems to have a separate supply. Does anyone have any tips for preventing this, or solving my problem right now? I would be willing to tear into the wall in the laundry room, though I imagine cutting through studs to access the cavity beneath my walkway would be structurally bad. Any advice or ideas? Thanks guys!
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